From lamb to llymru, at Gorse, the dedication to Welsh ingredients and recipes has earned the restaurant Cardiff’s first-ever Michelin star.

Opened in May 2024, Gorse, which is the city’s first-ever Michelin-star restaurant, takes both inspiration and ingredients from nearby regions – to the point that almost everything on the menu comes from Wales (there are a few exceptions, such as coffee, wine and sugar). It’s restrictive, but it delivers a true seasonal snapshot of the area. ‘We try to focus on what we do have and what’s great, rather than what we don’t,’ says Tom Waters, the chef-owner. ‘It’s all quite harmonious, because it all comes from this part of the world.’

Based in the Cardiff suburb Pontcanna, the 22-seater dining space is interspersed with artwork and crockery made by artisans with Welsh postcodes, to pair with its homely, relaxed atmosphere. The menu features what Tom calls ‘modern Welsh food’, including fresh takes on longforgotten national recipes. ‘A good example would be a dessert we have, which has become a favourite,’ says Tom. ‘It’s based on an old Welsh dish called a flummery (llymru). People would use oat husks from harvest and steep them in milk, and you’d get a sweetened blancmange-style dessert. We reimagined it for a modern palate – with more of a crème caramel texture, finished with a little caramel and blackcurrant wood oil.’

For more information visit Gorserestaurant.co.uk